Blog Tour: Cinders & Sapphires Clothing Glossary

Welcome to today's Disney Hyperion CINDERS & SAPPHIRES blog tour. Today I'm thrilled to share with you the Clothing Glossary for Leila's debut. First, here's a little bit about the book:

By: Leila Rasheed

Published by: Disney Hyperion

Released on: January 22, 2013

Series: At Somerton #1

Purchase from: Amazon | Barnes & Noble

One house, two worlds...

Rose Cliffe has never met a young lady like her new mistress. Clever, rich, and beautiful, Ada Averley treats Rose as an equal. And Rose could use a friend. Especially now that she, at barely sixteen, has risen to the position of ladies’ maid. Rose knows she should be grateful to have a place at a house like Somerton. Still, she can’t help but wonder what her life might have been had she been born a lady, like Ada.

For the first time in a decade, the Averleys have returned to Somerton, their majestic ancestral estate. But terrible scandal has followed Ada’s beloved father all the way from India. Now Ada finds herself torn between her own happiness and her family’s honor. Only she has the power to restore the Averley name—but it would mean giving up her one true love . . . someone she could never persuade her father to accept.

Sumptuous and enticing, the first novel in the At Somerton series introduces two worlds, utterly different yet entangled, where ruthless ambition, forbidden attraction, and unspoken dreams are hidden behind dutiful smiles and glittering jewels. All those secrets are waiting . . . at Somerton

I love a well written historical story with romance, and plenty of intrigue, all of which Cinders & Sapphires has. If you're a fan of Downton Abbey, this is sure to be a must read for you! Sophie and I are both smitten with this book. She's already reviewed on Page Turners and my review will be up today, here on the blog.

Clothing Glossary:

Ascot–Men’s tie associated with formal dress, also known as a Cravat, tied with one loop or double knot, held in place with a tie pin.

Bloomers-Named after Amelia Jenks Bloomer known to be one of the first adopters of the wide leg full trousers gathered below the knee. Bloomers were popularly worn by women with the advent of the bicycle.

Bolero-An open front, sleeved or sleeveless jacket, almost reaching the waist. Often with braid or trim embellishments.

Challis-Lightweight plain woven fabric mainly used for blouses.

Drawers-Long loose fitting knickers worn to the ankle made to be viewed below skirts, usually made of cotton.

Duster-Long lightweight coat introduced during the late 19th century with the advent of the automobile. Worn while motoring to protect clothing from the dusty roads at the time. Dusters had long sleeves, high collar, and cut in full length.


Edwardian-A style of dress associated with the period between the 1900 to 1910. Showcased with clothing lines including high collars and long sleeved, voluminous bustline, fitted waistline and curved full hips. Skirts had majority of the fabric gathered at the back waistline and length reaches to the ankles.

Eton Jacket-Originally a boy's short waist-length jacket worn by students at Eton College in England from the mid 19th until the early 20th century. Similar short jacket styles became popular in the late 1900’s which became popular for women.

Frog-Decorative braid closure which loops over a braid toggle or button.

Grosgrain-Closely woven heavily ribbed ribbon. Popular trim used on hats.

Herringbone-Also known as chevron weave. Fabric pattern consisting of adjoining vertical rows of slanting lines, any two contiguous lines forming either a V or an inverted V.

Houndstooth-A fabric design of small jagged checks in the shape of a four-pointed star check design in a broken twill weave the checks are medium-sized and one of the colors is often white. Used for men's sports suiting.

Hourglass-Also known as ‘S’ curve silhouette. Shape exemplified with the Victorian and Edwardian period when women wore corsets to pull in the waist and push out the bust and hips. See Pigeon Front.

Leg-of Mutton Sleeve-A sleeve that is cut with a very full top that is gathered or pleated into the armhole, then tapers gradually to fit closely at the wrist. Popular style of the 1890s. It is also sometimes called by the French name for a leg of lamb, a gigot sleeve.

Mandarin Collar-Stand up collar on jackets, dresses and blouses, adapted from a close fitting Asian collar.

Motor Duster-see Dusters.

Newsboy Cap-A flat hat with a round full body, and multi paneled with a button on top, and often with a snap attaching the front of the hat to the small stiff brim in front. Cloths used to make the hat range from tweed (most common) to solid colors. Used as driving caps for summer wear and was popular in among both boys and adult men. As the name suggests, it is associated with newspaper boys and golfers.

Oxford-A woven fabric, employed to make the fabric in oxford shirts. The warp has two fine yarns paired together. The weft has one heavier, a softly spun fill yarn. A soft, basket-weave cotton used as one of the most popular fabrics for a dress shirt.

Pagoda Sleeve-A sleeve that is shaped much like an Asian building called a pagoda. The sleeve is narrow at the top where it fits the upper arm closely, then gradually flares out to become wide at the bottom. The shape is similar to a funnel, and so this sleeve style may also be called a funnel sleeve.

Pantalettes, Pantaloons-Also known as pantalet, long drawers extending below the skirt, with a frill or other finish at the bottom of the leg, commonly worn by women and girls

Peplum-A ruffle or flared section in the construction of a jacket, blouse or skirt that extends a short distance below the waistline or in attached to the hemline. Peplums may be sewn to the bodice or skirt, cut in one with the bodice or skirt.

Petticoat-An under skirt which fits around the waist with ties or elastic. Worn as a separate garment from the fashion skirt or dress. Gives the skirt or dress the desired fashionable shape and polishes the outer attire. Generally made of linen, cotton, muslin, or wool.

Pigeon Front-Also known as pouter pigeon front and hourglass silhouette. The design of a pigeon front has extra material gathered or pleated on the front of the blouse or dress which forms a pouch in the front. This pouching in front, combined with fullness in the rear of the skirt, produced the fashionable ‘S' curve silhouette of the early twentieth century. Blouses and dresses were full in front and puffed into a "pigeon breast" also known as monobosom shape that looked over the narrow waist, which sloped from back to front and was often accented with a sash or belt. Necklines were supported by very high boned collars and skirts brushed the floor, often with a train, even for day dresses, in mid-decade.

Pinafore-An apron with a bib front, halter neck and long skirt, that ties behind the waist.

Shirtwaist-Originally the word for a ladies blouse, the feminine version of a man’s shirt. Crisp tailored design with little lace and trimmings adorning this style of blouse.

Suspenders-Designed to hold up men’s trousers and knickers, consisting of two bands joined in the back and attached to trousers or knickers with buttons. Later designs attach with metal clips. Usually made of elastic, and known in UK as ‘braces’.

Taffeta-A crisp, smooth, plain-woven fabric with a glossy lustrous sheen. Made of various fibers, such as silk, rayon, or acetate, and used especially for women's eveningwear garments.

Tea Gown-A long loose-fitting gown formerly popular for wear at afternoon tea. This allowed corsets to be loosened or removed underneath. Characterized by unstructured lines, light fabrics, lace trim, and frothy or feminine detail.

Tweed-Fabric with a rugged, nub surface

, in any of various weaves of two or more colors or shades. Tweeds are desirable for outer wear, being moisture resistant and very durable, used chiefly for casual suits, hats, and coats.

Venise Lace- Also known as Venetian lace. A lace of varying thickness of thread available in hundreds of patterns. May be cut into motifs or used as all over lace. Made of either cotton or rayon This lace often has a high profile, and is made using a needlepoint technique rather than embroidery. A heavier weight lace, the patterns vary from geometric to floral. Each pattern is attached to the others by bars made of thread.



Walking Suit- consisting of a braid trimmed jacket with front closure and an ankle length skirt which flares at the back to permit easy walking.

Waistcoat- A men’s waist length, sleeveless garment worn under a jacket and over a shirt. Can be made of plain or embroidered fabrics, buttons up the front and usually had two small pockets. Today known as a vest.

Zouave Jacket- A collarless, waist length jacket, bolero style jacket with three quarter length sleeves. Worn as indoor and outdoor wear. Often with braid or trim embellishments.

The Family Tree (click on enlarge the picture)

I love how many characters play such a large roll in Cinders and Sapphires. If you're like me you like to draw the connections between each of the characters. Thank you to Disney-Hyperion, they've already drawn the connections for us. Check out this lovely Cinders and Sapphires Family Tree.

My glowing review for Cinders and Sapphires will be up shortly! If it's not a book already on your TBR list, I highly recommend adding it.